Back in March we reported that London luxury goods firm Dunhill was opening a new custom tailoring floor of its Madison Avenue flagship store in New York, the first of its kind in the U.S. Now we have more details of their custom tailoring program, featuring a selection of over 250 of the finest British and Italian cloths. Clients can create suits, jackets, trousers and shirts solely designed for their individual lifestyle or demands. Overseen by Bruno Cosentino, Dunhill’s resident master tailor who personally hand makes every bespoke item, the space is entirely dedicated to the brand’s exceptional tailoring service. A Dunhill custom suit undergoes 165 separate, meticulous operations performed by skilled artisans, with some 200 individual pieces going into making a jacket alone. Each jacket is expertly constructed using a floating canvas front allowing it to mold to the body over time. The Custom program offers a choice of two cuts – the House’s signature St James’ block, inspired by the archetypal Savile Row suit with several distinctive Dunhill touches, or the slimmer Belgravia fit defined by a suppressed waist, built up chest and sharper shoulders.
A suit can further be personalized by straight or slanted pockets, center or side vents and notch or peak lapels. Distinctive Dunhill silhouettes are enhanced by the introduction of a lightly ‘roped’ shoulder providing a typically English outline. This additional mark of luxury raises the crown of the sleeve slightly, ensuring the purest of lines from shoulder to sleeve. High performance fabrics are available including a 3-ply high twist super 130’s wool and silk fabric in a range of blues and greys. The classic Dunhill custom blazer can be created in the finest of Camdeboo mohair (above) which is lightweight, boasts great performance properties and travels beautifully, keeping the wearer warm in the cold but cool in the heat. Each Dunhill custom item will be completed and presented within two months. Once the design of the pattern is complete, it then becomes part of the Alfred Dunhill archives, kept in reserve for returning clients seeking additional bespoke services. Dunhill’s custom tailoring tradition includes a tuxedo made for Truman Capote to wear at his infamous Black amp; White Ball in the 1960s as well as bespoke suits made for Frank Sinatra.
Furthermore, Dunhill is offering a new range of luxurious super 160’s fabrics in a range of refined and classic designs. This luxuriously lightweight selection of cloth is presented in a range of shades with broken pinstripes for a relaxed seasonal approach to classic formal dressing. For the ultimate in stylish summer suiting, Dunhill is offering the finest pure Irish linen for Spring / Summer 2010 in sand or blueberry shades. Internal facings are re-worked this season to offer a new, sharper look to the in-breast pocket detailing. Half-moon stitching at each pocket mouth adds strength and finesse and a triangular security flap is fastened by means of a hidden button hole ensuring the cleanest of lines inside the garment. Dunhill Custom shirting meanwhile is available in a choice of nine collars, five cuffs, two pockets and a variety of front and back options.